Post by Big Al on Feb 22, 2007 3:33:38 GMT
If you've just bought some slots I will have directed you here. I’d like to help you keep them looking their best for as long as possible, heres how and some info (pics to be added):
Most slots are aluminium or a magnesium (hence the term Mag) alloy, unfortunately like all metal it corrodes/oxidises. The obvious difference between alloy/ali oxide and iron/steel oxide (rust) is the colour, ali/alloy oxide is an opaque/white colour, and will make your wheels grey and dull. In extreme circumstances and if left for a long period of time, oxide will eat into your wheels and cause pitting. Fortunately under normal conditions this oxide is also quite protective so in most cases its possible to remove this outer layer by polishing to reveal a fresh metal surface.
What causes the oxide? Oxygen does, but this is accelerated when water is added. They will oxidise quicker in wet or damp conditions, even atmospheric damp will cause this.
So you have some new shiny wheels and want to keep them that way? You need to add a barrier between the bare metal and atmosphere. The final stage of my polishing process uses a quality wax polish but this won’t last long in British weather conditions.
If you clean your car/wheels often and don’t drive in wet conditions you can maintain their shine by regular polishing. Leave all the T-cuts and Halfords wheels treatments on the shelf, they will do the job, but after trying just about everything I’ve found the best product to use on polished slots is good old fashioned Brasso and a SOFT cloth. It easily cuts through the oxide and minimises arm ache. Don’t use an abrasive cloth/scour on the polished surface, you’ll scratch it. (I haven't tried AutoSol yet though am told gives good results also).
Then apply a good quality (wax/polymer) polish.
Unfortunately there isn’t really a permanent solution to keeping them shiny without cleaning on a regulr basis. I’ve spoken to a number of professional lacquering companies to investigate having my wheels professionally oven bake lacquered, but have been advised the lacquer won’t adhere to a freshly polished smooth metal surface, and that when oven baked on a bare alloy it will yellow. (I’m still looking for someone that can do this and will update my website accordingly)
Air drying or rattle can lacquer could be used though I can’t guarantee it will adhere or for how long, if it flakes off it will look messy. This is something I’m going to test on some wheels of my own in the near future.
If you decide to try lacquering/painting there are a few precautions you MUST take before lacquering. During the polishing process I use some oil based products such as wax based grinding pastes/blocks and a final wax polish. Even though you can’t see it this needs to be completely removed for the lacquer to bond onto the polished metal surface. Failing this the lacquer will certainly crack or flake off.
To clean any remaining polishing products from the wheels please use a soft cloth and Methylated spirit / Isopropyl alcohol (try your local chemist ;-) ) or another suitable non oil based product.
What to do if un-lacquered slots have started to dull?
It depends how long you have left it and how bad the oxidisation is. If its only surface dulling then soft cloth, Brasso and plenty of elbow grease will recover their polished condition. If left too long they will have a grey appearance, the surface will no longer feel smooth and a re-polish may be required.
Heres a pic of what you can achieve with brasso and elbow grease. This wheel had previously been repolished and then left to oxidise so its kind of cheating, but as you can see they look quite good. What this won't do is help remove any pitting or damage and you won't get a true mirror polish shine without much more time and equipment.
If you have any questions please don’t hesitate to contact me and I’ll help/advise to the best of my ability.
Hope that helps, Al
Most slots are aluminium or a magnesium (hence the term Mag) alloy, unfortunately like all metal it corrodes/oxidises. The obvious difference between alloy/ali oxide and iron/steel oxide (rust) is the colour, ali/alloy oxide is an opaque/white colour, and will make your wheels grey and dull. In extreme circumstances and if left for a long period of time, oxide will eat into your wheels and cause pitting. Fortunately under normal conditions this oxide is also quite protective so in most cases its possible to remove this outer layer by polishing to reveal a fresh metal surface.
What causes the oxide? Oxygen does, but this is accelerated when water is added. They will oxidise quicker in wet or damp conditions, even atmospheric damp will cause this.
So you have some new shiny wheels and want to keep them that way? You need to add a barrier between the bare metal and atmosphere. The final stage of my polishing process uses a quality wax polish but this won’t last long in British weather conditions.
If you clean your car/wheels often and don’t drive in wet conditions you can maintain their shine by regular polishing. Leave all the T-cuts and Halfords wheels treatments on the shelf, they will do the job, but after trying just about everything I’ve found the best product to use on polished slots is good old fashioned Brasso and a SOFT cloth. It easily cuts through the oxide and minimises arm ache. Don’t use an abrasive cloth/scour on the polished surface, you’ll scratch it. (I haven't tried AutoSol yet though am told gives good results also).
Then apply a good quality (wax/polymer) polish.
Unfortunately there isn’t really a permanent solution to keeping them shiny without cleaning on a regulr basis. I’ve spoken to a number of professional lacquering companies to investigate having my wheels professionally oven bake lacquered, but have been advised the lacquer won’t adhere to a freshly polished smooth metal surface, and that when oven baked on a bare alloy it will yellow. (I’m still looking for someone that can do this and will update my website accordingly)
Air drying or rattle can lacquer could be used though I can’t guarantee it will adhere or for how long, if it flakes off it will look messy. This is something I’m going to test on some wheels of my own in the near future.
If you decide to try lacquering/painting there are a few precautions you MUST take before lacquering. During the polishing process I use some oil based products such as wax based grinding pastes/blocks and a final wax polish. Even though you can’t see it this needs to be completely removed for the lacquer to bond onto the polished metal surface. Failing this the lacquer will certainly crack or flake off.
To clean any remaining polishing products from the wheels please use a soft cloth and Methylated spirit / Isopropyl alcohol (try your local chemist ;-) ) or another suitable non oil based product.
What to do if un-lacquered slots have started to dull?
It depends how long you have left it and how bad the oxidisation is. If its only surface dulling then soft cloth, Brasso and plenty of elbow grease will recover their polished condition. If left too long they will have a grey appearance, the surface will no longer feel smooth and a re-polish may be required.
Heres a pic of what you can achieve with brasso and elbow grease. This wheel had previously been repolished and then left to oxidise so its kind of cheating, but as you can see they look quite good. What this won't do is help remove any pitting or damage and you won't get a true mirror polish shine without much more time and equipment.
If you have any questions please don’t hesitate to contact me and I’ll help/advise to the best of my ability.
Hope that helps, Al
